New packaging

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We are pleased to announce a new feature of Darluck natural cosmetics.

Our history has been a constant search for quality. Quality that meets the needs of our customers and delight. Through innovations and solutions in the products have achieved the quality targets.

Our concern from the beginning, besides quality, was also to sustainability. A biodegradable natural product could not come wrapped in a synthetic packaging. Then chose the natural polymer cellulose and recycled paper to pack our soaps.

With the growth we saw the opportunity to be innovating in this craft sector in question that packaging, and we decided that Darluck would then be a pioneer, as in other respects, the use of a simpler packaging and more in line with sustainability.

We developed a charming box to pack our soaps!
Everything is done for us, we maximize the handmade concept with great taste and creativity. We do not use any graphic or cardboarder to make these packages. We prepare the layout, buy recycled paper, printed, cut and assemble one by one these boxes.
Minimize the number of materials, we decrease the disposal, we use less resources and energy – nature thanks!

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After Shave Balm Mint

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Complementing the line for shaving, a natural  after shave balm, as an option to the classic splash after shave type. Added to regenerating, moisturizing and nourishing properties of Aloe Vera, the presence of natural alpha bisabolol provides exceptional anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and healing protection for skin. A refreshing scent of mint essential oil provides comfort after shaving.

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Packaging in glass with spray system provides an easy and convenient application directly in the face

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Darluck Natural Handmade Soaps & Cosmetics – partnership

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We are very proud and pleased to announce a technical and commercial partnership with Darluck Saboaria e Cosmética by Cris Dragesso Luckachaki from Tangara da Serra, MT, Brazil.

Cris is a professional beautician and has been dedicated for over 15 years, working with Pro Estética Mulher your company in the city of Tangara da Serra. Has a year decided to dedicate also to make handmade soap and cosmetics and facing many difficulties due to distance of over 2000 km that separates the great centers, able to establish, with great skill and dedication, an activity that offers products and high quality services – customers happy!

saboa allWith a creative and comprehensive line of handmade soaps, offers a complete solution for natural products. New products will emerge regularly to meet the needs of the client. Regastou fondly reminiscences of the past with Alma & Olga Line made ​​by hot process that preserves the assets of oils and plants. Alma & Olga is part of the portfolio of products comprising lines of soaps, cosmetics, home products, all natural without use of synthetic and harmful health products.

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Recently launched the beginning of a complete line of 100% natural cosmetics, vegetables.

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A segregated space, dedicated to the development of products, which very soon if you plan to enlarge.

I have high expectations for the success of this partnership, I believe in the competence and constancy of purpose and quality of jobs that have always guided the activities of Cris Dragesso Luckachaki!
Good luck and work hard for all of us.

Natural cosmetics – release!

P1030836It is with great satisfaction that after six months of development and testing, I am launching an initial line of cosmetics – Cream Moisturizing Body, Moisturizing Cream for Hands and Face Lotion.

Are all natural vegetable products, free of any petrochemical derivative and that would surely be certified as natural by any cosmetics certifying bodies with global presence.

The difficulty of developing a line of products of this type here in Brazil, artisanal scale, the availability and quality of raw materials. It is very difficult to obtain the principal components and cosmetic actives for quality and reliability. Much time was spent in search of suitable raw materials and that would meet the development objective of cosmetic products. dimensoes cosmeticos verde tituloThe objectives established for product development were based on the dimensions that are used routinely to measure the efficiency and effectiveness of a cosmetic. This can be measured on 6 fundamental properties – nutrition, protection, penetration, slip application and oiliness. The goal is to achieve the maximum in the first five properties and the minimum in oily. I believe that I achieved this goal through careful choice of oils, cosmetic active and emulsifying system, developing three products 100% natural, free of any petroleum product. P1030823 P1030825 P1030827

Shaving soap – sandal

In the classic shaving many prefer shaving soap to shaving cream. The shaving soap requires a little more work to load the brush and build the lather. This time spent is part of the ritual of the classic shaving and refers to the golden age of the great barber. Are still the main products of the centenary and fashionable London houses the 3Ts – Truefitt and Hill, GF Trumper and Taylor Of Old Bond Street. P1030778 This container made ​​of ceramics in Japan, serves to maintain the shaving soap bar in use. P1030779P1030774This is another option, a ceramic made ​​in China more rustic look. P1030776P1030791

Soap reuse/reprocessing – rebatch

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Accumulated over time a lot of soaps that were leaning awaiting a destination, and now decided to make a reuse – rebatch and donate the soap for some institutions.

He had a box full of them, most packaged in cellophane made ​​in 2009 that ended up not trading at the time I was selling soap, because I changed the formula to a harder soap and they ended up getting.

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The amazing thing is that these soaps with almost 5 years, were all perfect, even with a sharp aroma of essential oils. I gathered these samples retention of batches produced, some of the tests I ran, totaling 13 kg of soap.

First step is to break up the soap bars to facilitate melting. I tried with a electric meat grinder but did not work because most of this soap has a predominant, although very dry, composition of unsaturated oils (olive) and so sticky that does not flow through the grinder.

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The alternative was to manually grate, a work bordering on insanity that took almost a whole day to grate bar for bars, 13kg of soap.

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I used a slow-cooker (crock pot) to melt and fuse the soap into a single mass. I made 2,5 kg batch with addition of 10% water.

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As the grated soap occupies too much volume each batch of 2.5 kg was born at three stages, taking approx. 3 hours each processing. The last load of shavings was allowed to melt partially to give this effect of colored chips.

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Finally after almost a day scraping the soaps and another 15 hours of rebatching work, here are the 100 bars of soap 90g reprocessed.

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Used oil soap – calcium carbonate

 

P1030287Rev Titulo EnI noticed that some initiatives of reusing used oil with the production of soap, both individual entrepreneurship as NGOs, using calcium carbonate or dolomite – ore of calcium carbonate and magnesium.

I was curious because the addition of such charges levied on the product costs and only justified if it had a very specific function. Ask information and how no one answered, I decided to do some tests.

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The formula used was this. The water based dye blue dye was used for better visualization of the test.P1030290titulo En To measure the difference in hardness of the soap was improvised device this mimics an apparatus for measuring impact. Consists of a driver tube, 1 meter high which is released by a steel rod with 15g weight. Gravity this rod goes through the driver tube and penetrates into soap. The hardness is measured by penetration depth (mm).

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The soap was drying for 25 days before hardness test and both with and without carbonate, had the same hardness value of 6 mm.

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The foaming test was done with a shaving brush rubbed in a standard way to develop the soap foam. Not noticed any difference. The behavior of the wet soap was also identical, forming the “gooey” feature of this type of soap.

To test the oxidation (rancidity) of soap, they were left next to a glass window exposed to direct sun in the morning for 10 days.

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Significant difference, the soap with calcium carbonate has much better oxidation resistance.

Conclusion:
From what has been tested we can only say that calcium carbonate improves the oxidation resistance of this type of soap that is very prone to rancificar. I believe that this is not the main reason to use dolomite or calcium carbonate used in oil soap, but unfortunately was unable to have more elements that could justify its use. I also regret that the people who use this kind of load does not divulgem the merits of doing this, so that the costs justify the penalty, everyone would gain.

Healing soaps – neem, andiroba and copaíba oils

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The cold saponification, the cold process, is a simple and easy way to make soap, but it has its drawbacks. The incorporation of the additives, flavorings and active can only be done in the presence of caustic soda, i.e., all these components are present in the reaction environment of saponification of oils. This environment of strong alkalinity spares almost nothing, literally destroys many active principles of many components.

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There is a mistaken belief that the addition of the active at trace preserves this active from lye attack because in most trace lye has been consumed. Cheating in trace only about 10% of lye was consumed to form the emulsion (trace), the rest is still there and will react the same way. The concept of superfatting (SF) is also mistaken when they think that particular oil usually a noble oil will stay intact inside the soap. What happens if there is an excess of oil (or lye reducyion) which is the end of the saponification will be a mixture of oils that are part of the composition of oils of the formula and not the one that was added in the given trace.

P1030496 textP1030500Thus is pretty pointless proclaim certain sayings of effectiveness, for example, therapeutic soaps made with medicinal oils like Neem oil made ​​by cold process. Components of Neem after saponification not already exists, will exist sodium salts of palmitic, stearic, oleic and linoleic fatty acid, almost invariable composition of vegetable oils. One might argue, for example in this case Neem that certain components do not react with soda and remain intact but it lacks scientific evidence, whether because the unsaponifiable Neem is zero.

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The best way in such cases is to change the process of cold process for hot process. In the hot process of adding assets is made at the end of the hot saponification which fully preserves the components.

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That’s what was done with these three healing soaps with medicated oils – Neem (Azadirachta indica), Andiroba (carapa guianensis, Meliaceae) and Copaíba (Copaifera spp., Leguminosas)

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The basic formula is: olive / palm kernel / palm / castor – 45/25/25/5 a zero SF, lye concentration of 30% and 7% o/o of medicinal oils. Aroma, Neem – leaf cedar and citronella, Andiroba – citronella, patchouli and petigrain and Copaiba – estageriana Eucalyptus globulus and Eucalyptus

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The therapeutic properties of these oils are:  Neeem oil  – antifungus, antibacterial, antiviral and dermatological insecticide
Andiroba oil – anti-inflammatory, healing and antibugs, strengthener of the hair Copaiba Resin Oil – anti-inflammatory, healing, antibacterial

The process used was the Hot Process with Continuous Stirring – HPCS.

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Hot Process Continuous Stirring – HPCS

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In the small town of Fontevraud L’Abbaye in the Loire Valley in France, since 1974 there is a renowned handmade soapmaker, Savonnerie Martin de Candre. Since its founding 40 years, Martin de Candre soap manufacture (MdC) is dedicated to producing excellent quality handmade soap products, as they say, using the classic process of Marseilles soap.

The soap (cream) shaving of Martin de Candre is considered the best in the world, they have a line of Marseille soap (for cleaning) with olive, coconut and palm, a line call huile de palme that is made with olive , coconut and palm oil and a third, huile d’olive, only with olive and coconut.

All these products have a premium price ranging 9 to 16 euros for soaps bars and shaving soap can cost 23 euros one container of 50 grams.

They claim that make the process of Marseilles soap which is a full boiling process where the soap is rinsed with salted water and glycerin is removed. In reality MdC makes a fairly conventional handmade hot process, which uses a mechanical stirrer to stir the mass during saponification and the lot size is less than 25 kg. This can be seen in the few photos on their website and also a video report produced by a French TV.

But what caught my attention was the procedure them to dry for eight months the soap bars and for 5 months the shaving soap! Intriguing because the hot process soap has saponified out and therefore safe and drying 15 days is enough to have the necessary hardness for lasting use. A soap made by Cold Process is ready for use in about 20 days. Here comes the question, why make a process more complex, lengthy and expensive process that is hot, if I can make cold process much simpler, faster and cheaper? After leaving it for 8 months a soap made ​​by hot or cold, theoretically they would have the same performance. It is clear that the hot process has the advantage of being able to incorporate sensitive components after alkaline saponification, which preserves these components, in which process cold is not possible.

I decided to design a test to compare the properties of a soap made by cold process and the same made by hot process and also compare the influence it has drying time in soap performance in both cases.

Hot Process with Continuous Stirring – HPCS

A handmade hot processs is normally done using as source of heating a double boiler or an electric slow cooker (crock pot), and the mass is homogenized manually from time to time to enable a comprehensive saponification.

To keep the process more akin to the Martin de Candre hot process, I designed a system called Hot Process Continuous Stirring – HPCS. Obviously not is an innovation, but in the artisanal scale not seen anyone use a similar system.
Thus, a comparative test between soaps produced by two distinct processes, eventually drifting to the development of a third way to do a hot process that is the HPCS.

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This is the setup of the equipment to do the HPCS – an electric heater (this is a laboratory magnetic stirrer), a mechanical stirrer (used with digital speed control) and a digital thermometer.

Here’s a video I made showing the HPCS to make benzoim soap (12 minutes):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYyWmYJ51EY

Soaps Testing

The Martin Candre in your palm line has a honey soap and a benzoim (tonkinense Styrax) soap, and were made simlilar these for testing. The oil soap composition was: olive / palm kernel / palm – 60/25/15, SF 5% and lye concentration of 30%. The comparative test will be done with the honey and the benzoim was done to confirm and optimize the process HPCS. You can not make a regular cold process with benzoim because of the need to dilute the benzoim oil resin with ethanol, which would give the defect of seizing on mass.

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On the left the soap made ​​with honey HPCS, the other by conventional cold process. The color is dark in the cold process due to carbonization of the sugar honey by lye.

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The two blocks of honey soaps , 3.5kg.

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Cut surface finish of the honey soap by hot process with continuous stirring using Flex Cutter.

P1030344Two bars 305 x 80 mmm

P1030351Finishing the top of bars

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The two bars finished in the dimensions of 305 x 80 x 60 mm.

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Cutting individual bars using Flex Cutter.

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Cut with precision Cutter Flex.

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All individual bars 80x60x30 mm, 135 grams.

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Cut the block of honey soap made ​​with cold process.

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All bars of honey soap CP, 90x60x25 mm, 130 grams.

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The two soaps will be used in the comparison between CP and HP.

Benzoim soap made by Hot Process Continuous Stirring – HPCS

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This soap was made to confirm and improve the HPAC process.

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Savonnerie Martin de Candre: http://savonnerie-martin-de-candre.com/fr/

Whipped soap

 

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In 2007 a soapmaker named Nizzy (Terry Nisbet) of Australia, popularized a different way of making soap, which is to hit solid oils in a kitchen blender, the same these for cakes or beat the whipped cream. The idea is incorporate air in the mass of saturated oil (solid), adding the unsaturated oils (liquid), add the lye and then the fragrances and additives. The process is a regular cold process done at room temperature and the difference is in phase to incorporate the air with an electric mixer.

The fundamental of the formulation is to have a proportion of at least 80% solids oils (saturated) which can be: palm, babassu, palm kernel oil, cocoa butter, shea butter, cupuacu, ucuúba, etc. and 20% of an unsaturated oil (liquid) to give the conditioning properties to the soap.

The whole process is done at room temperature or cooler, I usually make about 10 to 15 ° C . I melt solid oils to mix well and then put in the fridge to solidify. The important thing is to keep the oils solid, otherwise it is not possible to turn a beat aerated cream. This aeration causes this type of soap when placed in water, it not sinks, it floats. It also has a greater volume per weight due to occlusion of air. As the cold is done at a low temperature saponification is slow and hardly occurs and the gel phase. The air occluded also retards saponification and it allows more time to make soap. I often say that the hit soap is great because it does not need to rush, no haste, has no trace of the point, is the soap without stress!

OP Whipped Soap Blog english 520pxHere the formula and the instructions of the process.

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Clockwise, the pigments used as colorants, dispersed in 10g of vegetable glycerin, the mixture of essential oils, a 28% lye solution which was cooled to 10 ° C, the mixture of olive and castor oil and the plastic bag with the oils solids were melted and then kept for two hours in the fridge to solidify partially.

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The mixture of solid oils partially solidified.

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Beginning to incorporate air using a very simple mixer (made ​​in China) but cheap, versatile and robust, allows you to use one or two rods and can also be detached from the bracket and secure by hand, the planetary effect is obtained by rotating the bowl with the hands.

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After about 10 minutes beating on high speed aspect is that, like a cream.

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It is time to add the mixture of unsaturated oils slowly to avoid the decrease of the minimum aeration.

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The lye is added very slowly and with care to avoid splashing out of the container. If note the increased volume due to air occluded.

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After the addition of lye the mass is hit by another 10 minutes on average, it provides a good mix of lye with the oils and trace is not realize because of aeration.

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Adds up the essential oil slowly to not damper the aeration

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I divide the soap mass into three parts coloring with white pigment, red and blue.

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Was used the  technique of spoon swirl. As the reaction is very slow, there is the concern of making fast because, unlike the usual cold where time is a key factor in the viscosity of the hit soap mass remains for a long time without changing.

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Swirl finished and ready to stay 24 hours to be demolded.

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The block taken from the mold after 24 hours. The heat of saponification evolution occurred only after 12 hours from the beginning of cold process a saponification rather slow.

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The block positioned in multiple new cutter (this is still a prototype, will soon be selling this cutter and another type).

P1030165Cutting in 12 soap bars.

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100% Coconut soap body & bath – ready

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After 3 weeks drying was completed the 100% coconut soap for use in the body. The question we had was whether this soap superfatting 20% to make him suitable for use in the body, neutralizing a possible effect of dry skin, was a really good soap for bath and body. I’ve used three days followed this soap in the shower and I can say that it is amazing, one the best soap I’ve ever made / used! It does not dry the skin, it leaves a feeling of treated skin with a cream or oil, velvety very nice. That’s because 20% of excess coconut oil is really a true superfatting. All other properties are excellent, has great hardness, and the bubble is fantastic! The essential oil massoia is very good, has a fabulous power of scent, smell fresh coconut! Each skin is a skin and not generalize, for me was very good, really enjoyed, you might not go so well in others, but in any case recommend making this soap.

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Chocolate soap with mint and cocoa drops

IMG_0775IMG_0701Soap formulated with palm oil / babassu oil / olive oil / castor oil / cocoa butter – 30/30/30/5/5 with SF (superfating) 5%, lye concentration of 30%, 13 % (o/o) of solid chocolate bars with 70% cocoa and 0.7% (o/o) of 100% cocoa powder. The soap was decorated with the technique of straws with green pigment of chromium and titanium dioxide for green spots and aroma of 3% (o/o) of essential oil of peppermint. In the cocoa colored spots the red iron oxide was tinting with black iron oxide and titanium dioxide, and  to give aroma, was used sweet orange essential oil 2% (o/o).

IMG_0491Was made this device that eliminates the use of modeling clay to hold the straws. It measures the mold and is attached to the bottom of the mold. The wells are 8.5 mm in diameter to hold 8 mm straws and has a depth of 12 mm.

IMG_0650This mold was especially designed to allow to do 6 x 9 cm bars from 6 up to 24 bars  (130g) using the technique of pipes.

IMG_0653As this decoration was not used all the wells, those that are not used have been closed with tape (in blue).

IMG_0657The chocolate is mixed with oils and cocoa butter and melted in the microwave.

IMG_0660To use the technique of straws is important to leave a trace very light, which is added cocoa powder.

IMG_0663With the light trace is possible and even the mass of soap in the mold with the straws. The mold is in its maximum capacity as the mass is for 24 bars.

IMG_0664There was the formation of full gel and the surface temperature was 42 º C and after 6 hours the straws were removed when the temperature dropped to 32 º C.

IMG_0668Despite the high temperature generated by the gel phase, there were no problems with surface irregularities such as cracks. This mold format favors the full gel when used at maximum capacity. Decoration was made as described above, with the very light mass trace.

IMG_0669As mold lining was used a so-called opal plastic that is used to make lamps domes. Excellent plastic for this purpose.

IMG_0680Using the vertical cutter was cut 3 mm from the top of the bar to eliminate the imperfections due to filling the cavities.

IMG_0689With the vertical cutter bar was cut into four smaller bars with a thickness of 23 mm.

IMG_0691All smaller bars cut, no imperfection.

IMG_0714The individual bars was cut with individually cutter to all 24 bars standard size 6 x 9 cm.

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100% Coconut soap – body & bath

IMG_0620IMG_0612Typically a soap with 100% coconut oil (coconut oil, palm kernel oil or babassu oil) is used for general cleaning, washing clothes or dishes, this because the excess sodium laurate is aggressive and sometimes irritating to the skin. As usually limited range of safe amount of coconut oil in 35% when the soap is used in the body.  The american soapmakers  found that a 100% coconut soap with a  superfatting of 20% or more ceases to be aggressive and provides a high quality soap for skin, loses its aggressiveness and being only with coconut, the bubble produces is  highly plentiful and enjoyable. This soap was made with 100% organic babassu oil, superfatting with 20%,lye concentration of 30% and was used as liquids 50% coconut milk and 50% coconut water, frozen, for the dilution of lye. Was used as fragrance essential oil of massoia (Cryptocarya massoia) that has an intense aroma of coconut, and a background of cinnamon. This oil is from Indonesia.

IMG_0579Coconut milk was mixed with coconut water and this mixture was frozen because I wanted to have minimal charring and maintain the color of soap as clear as possible. The lye was added to this frozen mixture and shaken until complete dissolution. After the dissolution temperature was 15 ° C.

IMG_0580The babassu oil was melted in the microwave and the temperature was at 54 º C.

IMG_0584In the mixture of lye solution and babassu oil, the temperature was 34 ° C, a good temperature to have a slight draw a gel and avoid too heavy. We used a wired whisk, it was not necessary to use the mixer. Was added in the light trace, 0.3% (o/o) of essential oil massoia.

IMG_0587The mold is made ​​of silicon and the straws are to obtain the decorative effect of the balls.
IMG_0594The straws were removed and the cavits were filled with blue coconut soap mass(ultramarine blue), after 6 hours, after full development of the gel, where the maximum temperature reached 38 ° C measured on the surface in the middle of the block.

IMG_0598IMG_0599The block was cut in half in the horizontal to generate four bars 9 x 7.5 cm 200g each.

IMG_0609IMG_0619Here are the bars of coconut soap 100% for body and bath with a fabulous aroma of coconut and cinnamon and is right my friend Ane Walsh, that supply me the eo of massoia, a smell of delicious coconut candy!